In this series, we’ll be hiking the burger trail to find the latest, greatest and most delicious burgers in Milwaukee. Click here for an explanation of the criteria used to rate each burger. Where have we been? Check out the complete catalog of burger reviews here. 

It’s been a hot minute since I last reviewed a burger for the On the Burger Trail series. Truth be told, after eating over 180 burgers, the series had begun to feel a bit stale. No longer inspired to find the next great burger, I decided it was time to take a pause.

But thanks to the rise of a few new burger joints, along with a renewed sense of excitement for indulging in beefy bliss, I decided to bring the series back for Dining Month. If all goes well, I might try to add to the series on at least a monthly basis. I may even revisit some classic burgers and old favorites, just to see how they’ve held up over the years. Stay tuned.

The Bridgewater Modern Grill
2011 S. 1st St., (414) 299-6556
bridgewatermke.com
[Read more]

The Bridgewater Modern Grill was among the biggest openings of 2022. It quickly impressed guests across the city with its modern industrial design, expansive patio, gorgeous riverfront views and menu featuring dishes made with the restaurant’s oak-fired Jade grill.

Two years later, the restaurant is still a destination for both its view and creative menu, which has positioned itself midway between the “everyday” and “special occasion” mark with starters like a duck tostada and sweet chili shrimp; sandwiches like their lobster roll with browned butter aioli and chives; and entrees like seasonal pastas and ravioli, scallops and grass-fed ribeye steak.

For two years, once of the things I've wondered about the menu at The Bridgewater is: what kind of burger fits into this picture? And how would it hold up against the Burger Trail rubric?  This past week I paid a visit to find out.

The Bridgewater Burger is described simply on the menu as: wagyu, coal-roasted shallots, gruyere, roasted garlic aioli, choice of greens or frites ($19.50).  I ordered mine with fries (or should I call them frites?).

Here's a photo of my companion's burger, which they ordered with a salad (or should I call them greens?).

X

Presentation: 10

The burger, which comes with a generous portion of seasoned thin-cut fries, showcases a glossy brioche bun cradling two thin caramelized beef patties. Gruyere cheese melts lazily over the edges of the top patty, carrying with it pieces of golden shallot. Pieces of arugula and various microgreens peek out from beneath on either side, while two skewered thick-cut pickle chips decorate the top. 

While the burger was potentially more eye-catching when displayed alongside a fresh bed of greens and gorgeous cherry tomatoes, it was still attractive when paired with fries.

Bread/Bun: 10

The brioche bun was fresh and soft with a classic sweet flavor. Its cut sides were nicely toasted from edge to edge. The bun was also nicely sized, with a meat to bread ratio that gave the burger the opportunity to shine. Although the burger held onto a healthy amount of fat, which seeped into the bun, it also held up fairly well against the juicy, pleasantly greasy burger patties.

Burger: 10

The beef patties were beautifully caramelized and, although the menu didn’t promise the crispy, slightly salty edges that come with a smash burger, that’s precisely what was delivered. 

Wagyu beef is known for its high level of intramuscular fat, an element that contributes to both its tenderness and flavor. And while I have found myself wondering if the use of Wagyu for a burger is excessive (or necessary) – especially considering the options for flavorful, amply fatty blends containing beefy brisket and the like – it was hard to argue with the melt-in-your-mouth qualities that this smash burger delivered. The flavor itself was beefy with just enough seasoning to bring out the umami flavor and the texture was tender and juicy, making it the star of the show.  

Toppings: 9

As for the toppings, most fared as well as the burger. In fact, The Bridgewater Burger presented a nicely balanced combination of flavors.

The Gruyere was beautifully melted and added a pleasant nuttiness that really complemented both the burger and the coal-roasted shallots. The shallots themselves were sweet with a flavor not dissimilar to a nice caramelized onion, but slightly more delicate.

The roasted garlic aioli added a nice mild flavor and enough interest that this burger didn’t require any other condiments. In fact, a dip in the ketchup that came with my fries didn’t complement the more sophisticated flavors of the burger (though I tried it out of pure curiosity). The same was true for the pickles, which were presented with (but not on) the burger. 

The one ding I have to mention is the choice of delicate greens on the burger. While I appreciated the range of flavors that came with the pepper arugula and combination of both sweet and peppery sprouts, their texture once heated up by the burger patties wasn’t ideal. Rather than being crisp and fresh, they were wilted and stringy, something I found to be unpleasant on a textural basis.

Value: 10

There’s value to this burger on numerous levels: the quality of its ingredients (including the Wagyu beef and Gruyere), the labor and consideration put into toppings like the coal-roasted shallots and roasted garlic aioli; and the overall balance of its flavor profile. The generous portion of fries is also notable, as so many places have gone to a la carte for their sides. 

And it’s true what they say that you often pay for the view at a restaurant. But, in this case, I’m glad that the burger at The Bridgewater is as mindfully crafted as the beautiful space in which one has the pleasure of enjoying it.

49/50

The Bridgewater Burger is an adult burger with a flavor profile that’s equally as beautiful as its environs.