Totero's
233 Mead St.
Racine
(262) 634-9488
Wheelchair access: Steps and very tight quarters

A 20-year search of the greater Milwaukee area has yet to unearth any pasta as good as that found at Totero's, a tiny, unassuming corner tavern in Racine.

Indeed, this is the archetypal Italian restaurant of which dreams are made. Patriarch Sam and his daughter Angie and son Al continue the tradition that have made the corner of 23rd and Mead the place to go for strapping on a bib and burying your face in platter upon platter of what may be the best pasta in the state.

It's hand-crafted food and service without the pretensions. Located in the shadows of the J.I. Case factory, this little corner tap is filled with family pride. Red and white checkered tablecloths, plastic grapes, decorative plates, a few sports photos on the wall and a bar full of hungry people waiting for a chance to sit, provide as much atmosphere as you need while attacking the belly-busting plates of pasta that are placed in front of you.

Did someone say pasta? The menu is simple and straightforward. Huge kettles of wonderful slow simmering family recipe tomato sauce await your beck and call. Spaghetti, penne rigate, handcrafted gnocchi, meat and cheese ravioli the size of small pillows, and lasagna the size of a small condo keeps the crowds groaning and coming back for more.

Without a doubt, If I ever get stranded on a desert island, I want a pan of this stuff under my arm! The short drive to Racine is indeed worth the trip. Come early and be prepared to wait. A bottle of wine at the bar will help pass the time and make you a few new friends. I grew up in this place and it's my favorite mom and pop restaurant in the area.

This is a working class bar and there is a cross section of folks of all shapes and sizes. All have one thing on their minds: pasta!

Moderate.

A full bar and a sparse selection of domestic and Italian wines.