By Mario Ziino Published Oct 27, 2003 at 5:41 AM Photography: Neil Kiekhofer of Front Room Photography

{image1}With a pinch of longevity and a dash of loyalty as its secret ingredients for good home-made food, Zaffiro's Pizzeria is widely recognized as a landmark on the trendy East Side.

The name Zaffiro has been synonymous with Milwaukee for 50 years, first in the old Third Ward and now on Farwell Avenue, just north of Brady Street.

Liberio Zaffiro, affectionately known as Bobby, first opened his establishment on the corner of Jackson and Buffalo in 1951. By 1954, he began serving Italian dishes featuring what has become one of Milwaukee's favorite pizzas. Bobby moved Zaffiro's to its current location in 1956 and owned the business until his death in 1989. His two sons now run the restaurant.

Zaffiro's has outlasted many local eateries and survived a number of transitional periods to hit the lower east side.

"When we were kids the neighborhood was mostly Italian and Polish," co-owner Mike Zaffiro points out. "Then as older generations aged and moved, this area went to the younger, hippie-types in the '70s and '80s. But by the 1990s, new construction and remodeling rejuvenated the area."

That rebirth has been essential, not only for the neighborhood but also for merchants like Zaffiro's.

{image2}"It was a big shot in the arm," Mike Zaffiro emphasizes. "The neighborhood has changed over the years. "Many have come and gone. Many have come back."

Zaffiro's stability has been vital for business.

"We've lasted as long as we have because our customers keep coming back," Mike Zaffiro adds. "Now, their kids come. People may move away but they are drawn back to their roots."

Joey Zaffiro, Mike's younger brother and partner agrees.

"I couldn't tell you how many times I've heard our customers tell us that they met here or had gone out on their first date here. I'm talking about couples dating back to the '60s. They come back to see the place. They come back to enjoy the food."

The clientele is very loyal according to bartender Frank Lococo.

"We see people stop in three times a week," he said. "Older crowds usually come in on Mondays and Fridays and the younger ones stop in on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. It's like clockwork."

Together, the good food and the atmosphere, makes this quaint, no-nonsense pub, with its red-checkered table cloths, fast and courteous service and reasonable prices, something special.

The menu is simple and straightforward. Although Zaffiro's serves traditional Italian pastas, including lasagna, mostaccioli and tortellini, it's the pizza that really makes the restaurant stand out.

The Special (cheese, sausage, mushroom and onion) is the most popular, though the E.B.F. (everything but fish) is a close second. The crust is almost soda cracker like, with a delicious sweet tomato sauce and good real cheese topping - two staples that have not changes over the years.

"The dough is made fresh every day," Mike Zaffiro says. "Everything is made fresh."

Pizzas come in small (10 inches), medium (12 inches) and large (14 inches) for lunch crowds, and medium and large during the evening. In addition, Zaffiro's delivers to surrounding businesses during the day.

Open seven days a week, Zaffiro's may not look like much from the outside, but once inside, you'll know why so many keep coming back.

Zaffiro's Pizzeria/Bar, 1724 N. Farwell Ave., (414) 289-8776, is open: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m.-midnight.; Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight; and Sunday, 4-10 p.m. Prices range from $7 to $17.50. MasterCard and Visa accepted. Casual attire.